Atelier Cologne Sample Whimsically Ranked and an Analysis of Notes

A few weeks ago, I got the complete Atelier Cologne sample pack. It was beautifully packaged, and contained very generous 2ml samples.I was intending to draw out my testing and review them all, but I was far too excited to wait! There were some fabulous surprises I never would have selected if I had not done the full set. I am going to really delve into the ones that liked, and maybe review later.

I have also found that wearing samples I didn’t pick has really helped solidify my understanding of my palette.  I thought of myself as a cool green person, but the warm amber bases are lighting my fire.

Here they are, by my whim, from most to least loved as of 10pm on a Sunday. Ask me tomorrow and I might have a whole other order:

1. Blanche Immortelle
2. Rose Anonyme
3. Gold Leather
4. Santal Carmin
5. Mistral Patchoulie
6. Vanille Insensée
7. Ambre Nue
8. Orange Sanguine
9. Mandarine Glacial
10. Rendezvous
11. Trèfle Pur
12. Pomelo Paradis
13. Cédrat Enivrant
14. Silver Iris
15. Grand Neroli
16. Sous le Toit de Paris
17. Magnolia Sud
18. Cèdre Atlas
19. Vetiver Fatal
20. Bois Blond
21. Figuire Ardent
22. Oolang Infini

Unexpected love: Amber Nue
Strong Mixed emotions: Silver Iris, Pomelo Paradis
My Most Loved Notes: labdanum (AN), sandalwood, spice, immortelle, cassis (SI), anise, vetiver (MG/SC), vanilla
Awesome Openers: All the citruses! The oranges were so edible! Unusally for me, I found most of the samples had great openings notes.
My Least loved notes: iso-super-e effect, the cool manmade ‘fig’ scents (stenone?), white musk (these are so overwhleming to be I might be hyper sensitive, as my perception really didn’t match other reviews.)
Curious Absence of: My good pal galbanum,  jasmine

50 Word Review: Serge Lutens Gris Clair

Gris Clair starts with the grey of the sky before a cool spring sunrise, bright with pure herbal lavender and sharp green galbanum. The powerful realist lavender slowly softens and warms into a lightly hay-sweetened spicy incense. The dry down is sex in the daytime: clean, warm, and inviting with hints of tonka sweetness.

Gender: A white crew neck t-shirt, worn once under a chambray button-down and hung neatly over an oak chair
Listed Notes: Lavender, incense, freedom
Sillage and longevity: personal but present; 8-12 hours, the lavender ends long before the spice and tonka
Worth it: yes.

50 Word Review: Atelier Cologne’s Santal Carmin

This is an ode to distinctive maple-cream New Caladonian sandalwood sharpened up with, to my nose, Haitian vetiver and cedarwood. The opening limette-tinged sugar rush fades to a luxurious maple warmth sparkling with woody notes. Dry-down is rich sandalwood heaven , sweet and close to the skin.

Gender:  A hand-tailored cashmere suit jacket in the library, red silk handkerchief
Listed Notes: bergamot, limette, saffron, sandalwood (New Caledonia), gaiac, white musc, papyrus, cedarwood (Texas), vanilla
Sillage and longevity: Moderate fading to professional; eternal (at least 24 hours on my skin, weeks on clothing)
Packaging and design: The gold bottle is gorgeous and decadent, if a bit ridiculous. While I find Atelier’s label design a bit meh, the leather sleeve and engraving font are modern and elegant. The travel bottle has a nice geometry.